The db GrafxBooster is a plug-and-play A/V device for all TurboGrafx and PC Engine devices that include the rear pins (so, not the Duo’s). It was designed by René of db Electronics years ago and is a great A/V adapter that includes a jack for for RGB output via a Genesis 2 RGB Cable, an S-Video output port and RCA jacks for stereo audio and composite video. It was my #1 recommended solution until Krikzz released the Turbo Everdrive Pro, which required a slightly different circuit to pass stereo audio from the CD emulation (stereo from HuCards and Mono CD audio still worked without a mod though). Luckily, thanks to a mod from Zaxour, you can now add that functionality to existing GrafxBoosters! Also, any unit purchased from Rondo/Castlemania from now on will have the fix pre-applied! The price is $80 plus shipping and they’re in stock now:
Purchase Here: https://retrorgb.link/grafxbooster
Turbo Everdrive Pro: http://retrorgb.link/tedpro
Genesis 2 RGB Cables: https://www.retrorgb.com/genesisrgbcables.html
EDFX: https://retrorgb.link/edfx
If you’re looking for a plug and play A/V solution for your TurboGrafx or PC Engine console, it’s my strong opinion (at least at the time of writing this) that there’s two main options to choose from: This GrafxBooster and Krikzz’ EDFX. The EDFX also includes a Genesis 2 MiniDIN for RGB and Composite video output and supports stereo CD audio from the TEDPro. Quality is equal, but it’s missing dedicated composite video and audio outputs, as well as a S-Video jack.
So basically, if you need S-Video, or want simultaneous RGB + S-Video or Composite output, get this GrafxBooster. And if you just need RGB or Composite video, save yourself $20 and get the EDFX. And if you want an internal RGB mod with an integrated audio circuit and the correct palette for S-Video, check out Zaxour’s TurboNanza: https://ko-fi.com/s/4d0de1c0ac
Also, here’s a diagram of the fix. Here’s what Zaxour said:
You’ll need two 2.2K resistors and two 10uF caps. Elco or ceramic is fine (it’s going into a high impedance, thus negligible voltage drop over the cap, no nasty dV/dt effects). Then solder them to the circled areas indicated (left pad of R111 for Right audio, right pad of R112 for Left audio).
